Geneva Watch Days 2026 + Recent Releases

This release season has room for almost every kind of collector. There is a blue skeleton tourbillon, an unusually approachable wandering-hour watch, an inverted gold movement, and a Rolex-sized gap in the conversation that deserves its own article. The common thread is variety: brands are finding very different ways to make a watch worth looking at.

Here are the watches from our latest selection, bringing Geneva Watch Days launches and recent releases together in one roundup. Serena Williams’ AP collaboration and the three Rolex Padellone models each get a separate Journal story.

H. Moser & Cie.: ceramic, a tourbillon, and Alpine blue

The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine puts its movement on show inside a dark case, with a vivid blue strap and blue details carrying the Alpine identity. Reference 6814-2100 is limited to 100 pieces and listed at $99,600 by Exquisite Timepieces.

The dark surround is what makes the blue work. It holds the composition together while the open movement supplies the detail. Even in a crowded release roundup, this is easy to pick out.

Daniel Roth: a quieter kind of presence

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt takes a different route. The shaped rose-gold case and dark dial give it a formal, compact appearance, with enough warmth to avoid feeling severe. It measures 38.6 by 35.5 mm and uses the hand-wound DR002 with a 65-hour reserve. The converted price is $67,788. Launch coverage lists the original Swiss price.

The case shape is doing most of the work here. For someone looking beyond the familiar round dress watch, that is the attraction: character without a crowded dial.

De Bethune DB25 Digitale

Jumping hours, a rotating minute display and a central spherical moonphase give the DB25 Digitale a genuinely different face. Its blue surface is the center of attention, with the time display arranged around it. The manual movement offers a five-day reserve; pricing is upon request. Monochrome’s introduction explains the display in detail.

This is one to spend time with. The absence of conventional central hands makes the dial feel more like a small scene than a standard instrument panel.

M.A.D.3: two colors, two routes to access

Vincent Calabrese’s M.A.D.3 collaboration uses a wandering-hour display inside a 40 mm steel case. The hour transition takes place gradually near the end of each hour. The pink version—the red-looking watch in our selection—is for MB&F Tribe members and friends of the brand. The blue version is offered through the public raffle.

Both carry the same reported Swiss retail price, producing a converted figure of $3,543 each. The distinction is access and color. Hodinkee’s hands-on report covers both versions. This is an appealing reminder that an unusual way of telling time does not have to come with a six-figure price.

Berneron Mirage 38 Miroir: yellow or white gold

The Miroir brings the movement to the front within Berneron’s asymmetric case. Both yellow- and white-gold bracelet versions are in our selection. At 38 by 34 mm, the shape is a large part of the appeal; the hand-wound Calibre 283 provides 72 hours of reserve.

The bracelet price converts to $159,088 for either metal. Production is 36 pieces per year per metal across strap and bracelet configurations, with first deliveries reported for October 2027. See Berneron’s white-gold specification and the launch review. The difference in color changes the mood, but the off-center architecture remains the main reason to look.

Bulgari × Vianney Halter

The Octo Finissimo Dual Time × Vianney Halter combines the Octo’s angular outline with a cluster of separate displays. The titanium version selected here is listed at $80,000 in Hodinkee’s coverage; Bulgari’s launch page introduces the collaboration.

The dial is deliberately busy. What makes it interesting is seeing that much visual activity inside an outline associated with flat planes and a strong geometric silhouette.

Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition

The Golden Yellow Masterlink Atelier Edition puts a textured dial inside the steel Masterlink case. It is one of three colorways, alongside Golden Rose and Rhodium, with 25 pieces in each color and 75 total. The official Golden Yellow product page lists $31,000. Full details from Gerald Charles.

The appeal is in the surface. The bracelet and case provide a clean frame, leaving the irregular dial texture to catch the light.

Also on the radar: Tudor Northflag GMT

The Northflag returns with a GMT function and Master Chronometer certification in a 40 mm steel case. Its integrated bracelet, dark dial and yellow accents preserve a distinctive look. WatchTime reports a U.S. price of $5,525.

Among all the complicated and highly limited watches here, this is the straightforward everyday proposition. The yellow GMT hand adds a useful function without taking over the design.

Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant H

The Projekt 01 Variant H is the final variation in the Projekt 01 design, according to the supplied release announcement. The edition is 399 pieces, with a converted price of $4,750.

The raised dial elements give it a texture that photographs almost like a field of small lights. The gray strap and case keep the palette restrained, letting that unusual face carry the watch.

Jacob & Co. Brilliant Tourbillon Baguette

The Brilliant Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino brings a very different kind of color to the roundup. Reference BT560.30.AC.UA.ABALA is a pièce unique, with a 42 mm white-gold case and the automatic JCFA02 tourbillon movement. The supplied retail price is $693,000.

The pastel gem setting takes over the entire face, while the white strap keeps the colors in focus. It sits at the opposite end of the visual spectrum from the understated pieces in this roundup, which is exactly why it belongs in a broad look at the release season.

Prices described as converted use the roundup’s September 15 rate of $1.2214 per Swiss franc, rounded up to whole dollars. They are not confirmed U.S. MSRP. Retailer and manufacturer dollar listings are identified separately. The Jacob specification and price come from the supplied specification sheet and release materials.